– Sheetrock hanging step will be before mudding of course.
– Make sure to measure twice and to double check what you do before actually cutting the Sheetrock.
– Cut carefully and patiently the first pass, then you can speed up on the next two cutting passes for each cut on all of your Sheetrock.
– After cutting one side of the Sheetrock then snap and fold it and cut of the remaining side.
– I recommend getting a sheetrock/wallboard hanging lift for the ceilings especially, you can find them online for under two hundred bucks.. I did.
– In some or many spots you’ll need someone’s help in either lifting or holding the Sheetrock.
– Hang the Sheetrock on ceilings first and then on walls.
– On ceilings keep the screws 12″ apart and in each beam, but on walls keep the screws 16″ apart and in each stud.
– Make sure to Get the crews into the studs and that they are long enough.
– Don’t ever use nails for hanging Sheetrock, it will come loose and crack or fall.
– Less cuts and joints = less tape and mud.
– Use common sense. Don’t have it? Then read the Holy Bible and ask God for it. The whole remodeling process is a good patience test, pray, ask God to help you, don’t try to do it on your own. If you’ll somehow hurt yourself, please try not to cuss everything and everyone out, it won’t help. Be patient and take your time, and don’t forget to take breaks, believe me they help to reboot your strength.
– Just for reference, I used the Beadex Joint Compound for mudding and Beadex FasTex for texturing.
– First step in mudding is taping the sheetrock with the special Sheetrocking paper tape.
– But before we’ll start taping the joints, let’s tape up (with normal sticky tape) or carry away all of the things that we don’t want to get ruined.
– Use masking blue tape on surfaces you care about, otherwise use the cheap tan masking tape.
– Use Beadex all purpose joint compound for taping and mudding sheetrock
– Mud more thinner layers in each mudding step than less of thicker layers – thick mud will crack and you’ll have to sand more too.
– Apply mud first, then the Sheetrocking paper tape, then squeeze the extra mud out evenly with a 4″ putty knife
– Use corner tool for easier taping and mudding in corners, but push it lightly while taping, finish off squeezing the mud out with a 4″ putty knife, if need to…
– Use 4″ putty knife for flat and straight tapping runs
– Use 1″ – 2″ putty knife for mudding tight spaces
– Start taping ceilings first then walls, in order not to get too tired, maybe even tape ceilings on first day and tape walls on second
– Keep the mud nice and moist by adding water when needed, but Do Not over do it
– Keep tools clean by washing in water or by wiping them with a wet rag
– Mud all of the screws on this step also.
– Second step in mudding is to cover the paper tape with the same all-purpose Joint Compound.
– Use 8″-10″ wide putty knife.
– Make sure to squeeze out all of the Unneeded mud so you wouldn’t have to sand it.
– Take time and be patient with the corners on this step, they might piss you off, don’t get too overwhelmed, sanding or texturing most likely will hide the little defects.
– Don’t scrape over tape too many times, because you’ll start ripping it.
– Mud the screws with the second layer.
– Third step in mudding is to widen the mud on joints.
– Use 12″-14″ wide putty knife.
– Make sure to put enough mud and then to squeeze it out evenly with that wide putty knife.
– If everything will look good, then this could be your last mudding step.
– I didn’t bother the corners on this step.
– Squeeze out just enough mud so that the edges blend nicely into the clean dry Sheetrock.
– If you think the screws need another layer of mud, the go ahead and mud them again.
– On the Fourth step in mudding I recommend only mudding and blending out the butt joints of Sheetrock, these are the joints on very visible locations and where Sheetrock was not indented in.
– Mud both of the sides of the mud line from previous step and on those but joints only.
– This step is for sanding.
– I liked using a special sanding tool that attaches to the shop vacuum and it uses the standard size sheetrock sanding screens/sheets, the ones with holes in them, 120 grit.
– Be careful sanding in the corners, this sanding screen will want to mess them up, so make sure to control it properly.
– I’d recommend using a High-efficiency filter bags for your shop vacuum.
– Take your time and breaks, don’t kill yourself by over-working.
– Sand only a few strokes over the joints, it’s very easy to over do it.
– Make sure to evenly and smoothly blend into clean sheetrock, otherwise people will see your mudded joints.
– The blending sanding step.
– In this step you’ll have to lightly and carefully sand everything again by using a Sanding Sponge for drywall.
– If you didn’t use a dust mask on previous step, then you must use one here, because of no vacuum.
– Make sure to seal this room or rooms off before starting this step.
– Wear a hat and dirty unimportant clothes, maybe even goggles.
– In This step you’ll pretty much have to get rid of the scratches from the previous tool.
– The primer-applying step, yep I took advice from a builder and primered first, then textured, and then painted… And I liked it, the primer suppose to hold the texture better.
– If you haven’t already taped every little thing, then this is the time to Tape it all; windows, doors, trims, electrical outlets/switches, lights, or whatever.
– Primering is just like painting, use a roller for large surfaces and a brush for tight places.
– Don’t waste your money on small cheap non-commercial paint guns, just read people’s reviews before buying one, many people had to repaint everything with a roller, cheap guns suck, plain and simple, and to use the commercial one you need lots of money and experience.
– I recommend getting an average or cheaper brand of primer and paint, because you still have to apply at least two coats of each product to get the good result.
– So remember, if one coat of primer doesn’t look or feel right, then you better apply the second coat while everything is ready for it.
– The texturing step, the knockdown style to be more exact, my favorite.
– I used a Homax cheaper kind plastic texturing gun with a refillable black container which worked just fine, but if you are gonna texture many houses, then maybe get a commercial metal/aluminum kind of texturing gun.
– Use the Beadex FasTex pre-mixed texture to fill your texturing gun, for about every gallon of that texturing mud I had to mix in almost 8 oz of water.
– Make sure to read the instructions in the texturing gun before using it, and then test it out on something unimportant and unneeded.
– Texturing does NOT need to be 100% even and perfect, it won’t look good.
– Texturing suppose to look like an antique or Mexican stucco style, uneven but at the same time look nice.
– Texturing is easy, don’t be afraid, just start spraying it, stop whenever you need to, and add more wherever you want to, but don’t stay in one spot because you’ll ruin it.
– Maybe start with a closet, then the room’s ceiling and then texture wall by wall.
– When about 30 minutes have passed after you textured some wall, closet, or ceiling, then you’re ready to knock down the sprayed texture sprinkles.
– For knocking down texture in the corners I really recommend using the mudding corner tool and for all other straight surfaces use your widest putty knife.
– Knock down the corners of a wall, ceiling, or closet first and then take care of the ceiling and walls last.
– Knocking down texture is very easy, just grab your widest putty knife that you used in the last mudding step, and start carefully and evenly riding it on top of your textured sprinkles. Hold the putty knife almost laying it down just raise the handle away from wall enough to clear your fingers. Use as much pressure as you would use to pet a dog. By applying a little pressure to that putty knife and by keeping your hand close to the wall you’ll make sure not to scrape off the textured sprinkles. Note that your hand on the handle is going to be going forward first, then the sharp edge of the putty knife, because you are not scraping anything off, just knocking it down.
– Do Not worry about all the excess texture that falls off of the walls or stays on them, you’ll take care of it later.
– Also, do not worry about your texture looking weird after you sprayed it and knocked it the right way, because it messes with your eyes, the large thick splatters will stay wet longer but the little thin ones will dry fast and become white which will look like there isn’t enough texture. All you got to do is come close to that wall and explore it yourself.
– When your done wash all of your tools with water, especially the gun.
– On the next day when the texture dried, get that same widest putty knife and run it over all of the texture again, but this time raise the handle farther away from the wall, almost 90 degrees, this important step will get rid off all of the loose and unwanted texture, and this step smoothens the texture’s edges.
– You’ll have lots of dry texture on the floor, just clean it up with a broom, and then with a shop vacuum.
– The painting step is pretty similar to the primering one.
– Painting on top of texture is a little harder than painting on the flat smooth surface, because now you have to make sure to get the paint into lower and deeper places of texture.
– Remember to apply tape on places you don’t want to be painted.
– Use blue or green painters tape because it comes off easy and doesn’t take the previous paint with it.
– From my experience with blue and green tape, I’d say they are doing the same thing, the green one is more expensive and they make you believe that it’s better than blue tape, but it’s not, I just used my green tape up because I didn’t want to go back and return it.
– Keep changing your angle of viewing and expecting for missed spots, because the light can reflect on the wet paint and make you miss the unpainted places.
– Paint horizontally and vertically for better coverage.
– Remember to touch up all of the corners and hard-to-get spots with a brush.
– Use a roller and a brush unless you are a pro and have a pro paint gun.
– I used the paint that contains primer in it also to better cover the unprimered texture.
– Paint two coats or blend your paint seams.
– If you want to paint the ceiling white with about a four inch white strip under the ceiling, then follow these steps… First, Paint the ceiling and about eight inches the wall under the ceiling.
– Second, after you gave a day or two for the ceiling to dry, then tape of the needed four inches of white strip on wall. I used a six foot straight edge or level to draw my straight lines with a pencil, and then I taped close to that pencil line to make sure it does get covered by paint.
– Third, after you painted two coats of your desired paint on the walls, then immediately and carefully take or pull that tape off, because you don’t want it to dry with the paint.
– I believe that to have a perfect clean line between two paint colors on a textured wall is pretty much impossible, but if you have ideas or better yet experience on how to make that line clean, sharp, and perfect, then let me know in the comment section below. Also, check out the product below that might help you with your remodeling project, they helped me a lot :)